Tomatoes are often attacked by fungal diseases or fungi.
The gardener's first instinct is to bombard them with pesticides.
However, there are other more clever and less toxic solutions.
What then are the effective ways to properly treat your tomatoes.
To read :
- All our topics devoted to tomatoes
- Learn more about caring for tomatoes
The main diseases of tomatoes
Here are the main diseases that can plague your tomatoes:
Thealternaria solani which grows on all plants of the nightshade family such as tomatoes, but also potatoes, eggplants, peppers, etc., is manifested by rounded spots on the leaves. It often spreads from the bottom up. The most affected stems may turn black (necrosis).
- Learn more about tomato blight
The phoma lycopercisi also causes cankers and black spots on stems, leaves and fruits. It is a serious disease that can invade the whole plant, including the root.
There are many other diseases of the tomato (anthracnose, fusariosis, powdery mildew, rhizoctonia, etc.). Let us retain the best known and the most feared by gardeners: the late blight of tomatoes due to phytophtora infestans. It is recognized by its yellowish spots, then brown, the center of which dries up. A white down is also visible on the underside of the leaves. Downy mildew usually starts with the lower leaves trailing along the ground and then slowly moves up to the upper stems and leaves and fruit. On the latter, it gives slightly oily brownish spots.
Methods of struggle
Against thealternaria solani, the solutions are numerous. Use healthy seeds, choose tolerant or resistant varieties of tomatoes and practice crop rotation to avoid multiplying the germs in the soil.
Against the phoma, a very simple control method, in addition to the choice of not very sensitive varieties, consists in disinfecting the stakes of tomatoes with Bordeaux mixture, or better to change them every year.
The means of combating Fusarium wilt use spraying Bordeaux mixture and pyrethrum to eliminate the insects that propagate it.
Finally, to control tomato mildew, in addition to resistant varieties, it is necessary to practice crop rotation so as not to plant nightshade in the same place for two years in a row. Mulching the base of the plants will prevent the spores from splashing from the soil to the leaves when it rains. Never put diseased plants in the compost.
Resistant tomato varieties
Belle Loraine®. Uniform red round fruits. Good taste flavor. Resistance: Fus1, Mil4 *.
F1 Chelsea Mini. Large-caliber, semi-early cherry type. Resistance: Fus1.
F1 Cornabel. Fruits long, horn-shaped, very fleshy. Melting flesh, few pips. Early and vigorous. Resistance: Fus1.
F1 Dolcevita. Cherry-type fruits in long clusters, light red, very sweet and fragrant. Resistance: Fus1.
F1 Estiva. Large fruits, round, firm, very good resistance to bursting. Resistance: Ver1, Fus1.
F1 Ferline. Very vigorous and very productive throughout the summer. very large, fleshy fruits with a beautiful red color and extra flavor. Resistance: Mil2.
F1 Maestria. Red fruits, undetermined habit, good taste quality, very vigorous. Resistance: Ver1, Fus1, Mil3.
F1 Myriad. Fruit elongated uniform red, growth indeterminate. Good disease resistance: Ver1, Fus 1-3.
F1 Ravello. In a cluster, bright red, early. Resistance: Ver1, Fus1.
F1 Sportivo. Round fruits, intense red color, early and very productive variety. Resistance: Fus 1-5, Ver1.
F1 Tastino. Round fruits, red color. Resistance: Fus 1-5.
F1 Vanessa. Round fruits, red color, very early variety. Resistance: Ver1, Fus1, Cla4.
* Abbreviations: Fus = Fusarium wilt, Cla = Cladosporiosis, Mil = Mildew, Ver = Verticiliosis.
From 1 to 5: the higher the number, the more resistant the variety is to this disease.
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